Monthly Archives: May 2014

Unwired

FIRSTLY, thanks to Rootchopper for shipping 2 Frisbee-sized apple fritters across the country. There is not enough gratitude in the world.  Rootchopper seems to be in favor of cheering people up with sugar-loaded pastries, and as a fellow junk food lover, I am deeply appreciative.  He is also an inspiration to those of us who might sometimes have a hard time prying ourselves off the couch in order to bike a mile to the store–in spite of his back problems, he bikes. A lot. And he loves every minute of it.  And I always get the impression that he’s a super cool dad to his two kids (Rootchopper, if you need anyone to talk your daughter out of majoring in anthropology, let me know). So thanks, Rootchopper, for being an all-around swell human and for reminding me why I love and miss the folks of #bikedc so much.

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I’m not sure how the internet companies are getting away with murder up here, but they are. The data plans for in-home usage (we’re not even talking cell phones) cost a lot, and you get very little out of them—mostly, slow connection speeds, unreliable connection, and incredibly low data limits. Just something else to toss on the pile of things in Alaska that cost a lot.

And as cranky as I’ve been about the general lack of connection, mostly because it means less contact with my friends and family, I can’t say it hasn’t improved my quality of life somewhat. When holing up and watching Game of Thrones for hours on end because you’re tired and homesick isn’t an option, you have to go find something else to do. And in spite of my last post (I hope you all got that that was a joke), there is a fair amount to do here. You just have to know where to look and who to talk to, and people will talk to you because almost no one has a smart phone here, at least not that they regularly use in public.  Information about local traffic, weather, and local businesses’ open hours is all on the radio station. If you’ve watched Northern Exposure (“And for the traffic report….Maggie O’Connell just drove too fast down Main Street”), yes, it’s a lot like that.

Stairs

On my first day off, I found the Mt. Ripinsky Trail. It’s so steep and muddy that they built stairs along the first mile. It was fun!

Why, just yesterday evening, we were invited to a gallery opening at the Sheldon Museum. We stayed for a couple of hours because the art was nice, the food was plentiful (people make a VERY BIG DEAL about events with free pizza here in town, probably because it costs $25 a pie), but mostly, the people were so darn interesting. I’m starting to see a lot of the same faces around town, and I’ve met many of them (it’s a town of 2500, so it’s not that hard), and just to give you an idea of the folks in attendance…

The gallery featured the art of local photographer John Hagen who doubles as a tour guide in the on-season. His black-and-white prints of nearby landscapes were on display, and they were beautiful. Many were of snowy landscapes, as you can imagine.

The London-educated Sheldon Museum conservator is among the smartest people I’ve met, and her husband and kids are fun, funny, and interested in all sorts of things, from trumpet music to dragon books.

An older gentleman asked us if we had spiked the punch, adding that it would be better with the addition of some local gin (there’s a new distillery in town).

I met another woman, originally from North Dakota, who teaches piano and voice, plays the ukulele, and knits, but she has also worked part-time as a museum assistant at the Sheldon for 19 years. She explained the museum’s halon gas system to me.

Michael, who is on the board of the Sheldon and the Hammer Museum, used to draw Bert and Ernie for Sesame Street. He greets each cruise ship that docks (while wearing a Hammer Museum t-shirt), rides an electric bicycle around town, and has genuine, contagious, exuberant enthusiasm about everything. His wife is the majorette for the local marching band (not affiliated with the high school, mind you), and her beaming face is on the front cover of the Haines Visitors’ Guide.

I also met a woman who invited Emily and me to bring our fiddles to a weekly gathering of musicians at the local assisted living center, and through the Hammer Museum board president, we’ve gotten involved in an ongoing restoration of the Anway cabin, which is just a couple of miles up the Haines Highway. Last Sunday, we helped weed a strawberry patch and planted some of Charles Anway’s heirloom berry plants.

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These strawberries grow to the size of chicken eggs.

The local historical society is restoring a cabin from the early 1900s.

The local historical society is restoring a cabin from the early 1900s.

I’ve also taken to drawing, reading, cooking, and writing. And playing Bananagrams with Emily at the Fogcutter Bar, like all the cool kids. Honestly, I might just lose my data plan on my phone when I get back.

Homemade pizza on homemade bread. Take that, $25 pies.

Homemade pizza on homemade bread. Take that, $25 pies.

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So there is no shortage of stuff to do here, and I’m grateful, because when we get off work at 5 PM, there’s still about 6 hours of daylight left. Which reminds me—if you want a Hammer Museum or Haines postcard, and haven’t already, send me your address and I’ll send one along (I wrote six this week, I just need to stamp ‘em). I’ve got time.

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Budgets and Boats

Before I get to the actual content of this post, I want to share the dinner I just made…

ImageThis is what happens when you accidentally cook 3/4 of a bag of dried beans the night before (that’s a lot of beans), then get back to your rental place and realize that you only have that, slightly stale (homemade) bread, a fridge full of expired condiments (belonging to the house’s owner–most expired between 2008 and 2010), and cheese. Baked beans on toast, ladies and gentlemen, and it took me about 15 minutes to throw together. I guess the British are onto something.

Groceries are expensive here in Alaska–they’re not lying about that. Milk is something like $6.50 a gallon, and ice cream that’s not the cheap-o store brand mostly made out of emulsifiers is darned pricey. Cheese is also a precious commodity, but I think I’d be dead without it, so I can justify the expense. Emily and I have had fun throwing together dinners on the cheap, though last night, we were so exhausted that we just went to Al’s Salmon Shack and got us some fish and chips (…it just occurred to me that that’s also a British thing. Hm.)

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Delicious, delicious grease in a basket.

Al’s Salmon Shack, by the by, is a food truck. They serve halibut, salmon, and rockfish, all deep fried, accompanied either with fries or served on a bun with coleslaw. It’s one of the cheapest dinners that you’ll find in town, although a basket of fish and chips will run you anywhere from $10 (salmon) to $14.50 (halibut). They do have bzillions of condiments available with their fish, however, so they get a pass from me. Last night, the girl running the shack told us about growing up in Alaska. She’s home from school in Anchorage and is gearing up for a hunting trip with her father. When I asked her what they would be hunting, we got into a discussion about game meat. Moose, apparently, is perfectly edible and tastes a lot like beef. Caribou is also good. Bear, however, is super gamey and tastes awful, particularly grizzlies, who eat a lot of fish.  You learn something new every day. I don’t get the impressions that vegetarians do too well here…good thing I eat fish!

OK, so onto the actual point of this post…why were Emily and I so exhausted last night? Well, it was Wednesday, and it was the first cruise ship day of the season. Haines gets one ship per week, and it happens every week on Wednesday.  It’s a big day in town, as you might imagine.  By numbers: Normally the Hammer Museum is open from 10 to 5, but we opened at 8:15 yesterday and closed at 6.  Yesterday, we had 92 visitors. Today, we had 9. On Tuesday, we had 4.

Dave, the museum’s founder, is also a longshoreman, so he spent the day running to and from the boat. He had to be up at 4 AM in order to dock the ship (they use his boat to tie up the lines and bring the ship in), and throughout the day, he and his crew had to adjust the gangplank because the cruise ship raises and lowers with the tide.  The crew then has to wait around for the ship to leave, which can be anywhere between 8 and 10 PM, so it’s a long day for Dave.  Emily and I are still learning the ropes (figuratively), so he also gave all seven tours yesterday while we watched, gave mini side tours, kept track of attendance, and sold merchandise and tickets. Carol stayed until about 6 to give the last tour because they always insist that we leave at 5. Along with being awesome, they are also incredibly nice.

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Dave gives a tour

The museum has been open for 13 seasons now, so Dave and Carol have been the life blood of the Hammer Museum for a long time. When they first opened in 2002 and Dave had another job, Carol staffed it by herself 7 days a week, 4 years in a row.  Dave originally started the museum with his own collection–he was intrigued by the stories and history contained within each hammer he collected, so he made it his mission to preserve and share the history of the hammer. The museum is roughly categorized by industry, and most of them are from bygone days (cobbler, barrel-maker, horseshoer, cobblestone paver, etc.).  Emily and I have discovered that most visitors who come through enjoy the experience more if Dave is there to give a tour (and he gives a colorful, wonderful tour), which just goes to show how connected he is to the place.

The level of devotion Dave and Carol have to this place is almost endless. They’ve gone to conferences and undergone a lot of museum-specific training, turned the museum into a non-profit in 2004, and they have gotten grants for professionals to write collections management and business plans.  Their overall goal right now is to get the museum to a place where it will continue to exist should he or Carol “get hit by a bus” (his words, not mine). That’s a tough goal when the institution has been built around and by them, when they’re only open for a few months each year, when they rotate out interns every summer, and when the budget is quite small.

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The museum has a lot of neat donated objects, like these mannequins from the Smithsonian Museum of American History.

All the right pieces are in place, however. Their board is made up of caring and devoted people, grants exist, and the documentation that they do have is pretty thorough–though there are thousands of hammers that need to be catalogued, and a higher level of year-to-year continuity (through a permanent paid staff member) is really needed.

So Emily and I have our work cut out for us. Right now, we’re working on improving some of the exhibits in the museum–mainly writing, improving, and re-printing labels.  Honestly, it’s difficult to figure out what sort of lasting impact we’re going to have since we’re only there for a few short months.  At least starting next week, we’ll be able to give the tours to the cruise ship passengers to give Dave and Carol a little bit of a break.  We’d also like to come up with some sort of interactive where visitors can watch videos of Dave telling stories and/or demonstrating some of the hammers, but we’ve yet to run that by him…

Either way, this is a completely different ball of wax from interning at the Museum of Natural History. The neat thing about small museums is that you get to see how all parts of the museum fit (or don’t fit) together, and you get to wear a lot of different hats.  The Hammer Museum really is a treasure, and I’m happy that I get to be here this summer.  By the way, please check out the website.

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You can see the hammer patent wall here.

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This was found underneath the building.

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Dave put this together (along with other nifty artwork around the museum)

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First cruise ship I’ve ever seen. They’re huge.

Tourist at the Visitor’s Center: “So what happens if there’s an emergency?”

Visitor’s Center staff: “You get airlifted to Juneau….or I guess you die.”

 

Haines, Planes and Automobiles

Pardon the profanity, but based on my extremely limited experience so far, I think the state nickname for Alaska could be “Alaska: We’re Not Making This Shit Up”. We landed in Juneau on Friday at 2:30 PM, and flying in was a jaw-dropping experience. Even before the descent, you could see mile upon mile of tall, snowy mountains, ocean, and small islands that look like they were once tall, snowy mountains but got swallowed up by the water. The Mendenhall Glacier (thanks, Anna, for remembering the name for me!) was visible from the plane.

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Our first hiking adventure! (It was like 3 endless miles just to get to the trail head.)

As I was sitting on the flight from Seattle to Juneau, a cheerful-looking girl with a violin and curly blond
hair walked onto the plane. We both recognized each other from the Internet at the same time, and we smiled and waved in passing. It was in fact Emily, my fellow intern. She’s a recent college graduate and history major from Lewis and Clark College, and after spending the afternoon with her yesterday, I can tell it’s going to be a fun summer.

2014-05-16 16.42.22Once you land at the Juneau airport (which is the second tiniest I have ever been to—the one in Moncton, New Brunswick is smaller, but not by much), you’re greeted by stuffed bears in display case, as a reminder that yes, they do have bears here. During dinner with the museum founder (Dave) and his wife (Carol) on our first night, they casually mentioned that there was bear repellant at the museum should we decide to take it with us while hiking. My mother had posed a very good question regarding bear repellant earlier this week—if you have to be close enough to the bear to shoot it in the face with bear repellant, aren’t you probably already a goner? I asked Dave, and he admitted that he’s never had occasion to use it, but he does carry a shotgun with him everywhere he goes. (To which I responded, “Wait…seriously?” He was serious.)

Dave and Carol are probably the most caImagepable people I’ve ever met. Dave whips together contraptions made out of hammers and junk he collects, works as a longshoreman and hauls in cruise ships, and Carol grows every vegetable on the planet. Both of them, it
sounds like, can fix just about anything. They lived without electricity or running water for 15 years, so they know how to carve together a living from scarce resources. Emily and I both felt kind of sheepish when they asked us if we knew how to use Facebook. Because yes, of course we can, but that doesn’t really seem like something to brag about in comparison. They put together the Hammer Museum with their own collection, and they fixed the building up themselves (I’m going to footnote the museum here—it is spectacular and deserves its own post. I’ll give you a picture for now).

But back to the scenery for a moment…we took a Cessna with Wings of Alaska up to Haines from Juneau, and it was kind of like riding in a big kite. You could feel the wings balancing, and you could definitely feel when the wind started to shift. Apparently (as I was informed upon landing), we got the “big” plane—it was an 8-seater as opposed to a 4-seater, and the 4-seaters are even bumpier. It was a beautiful day for flying, and as we casually flew by soaring mountains, you could see small waterfalls of melting snow on the mountainsides.
A man on board, who is a native of Alaska, used to work as an engineer on boats in the area. After sailing all around the world, he told us, he can say that the worst weather on the planet is right in the area we were flying over (the Lynn Canal is the name for that stretch of water). Apparently in the winter, wind gusts of up to 100 mph and temperatures well below 0 make for a terrifying ride. “You’d never know a wave could get so big,” he said, and at a certain point, it’s so cold that turning around is not an option, so you just have to sail forward and hope for the best. “But we never killed a passenger,” he added, “though we did run over one fishing boat.” That, he told us with a grin, is why he was taking the plane.

The “commuter planes” here are kind of like giant flying trucks. They deliver people, but also food. I saw some take-out containers in the cargo area, so I’m not sure if you can order food from Juneau and have it delivered by plane…? This seems unlikely, but I’ll have to verify. So rather than going straight to Haines, we stopped to drop people and cargo off in Skagway. Skagway is 12 miles away from Haines via boat or plane, and it’s 350 miles away by car. Dave mentioned that we’ll get to visit in the next couple of weeks, and I’m looking forward to it (NB: When you hop off the plane in Skagway, everything smells like fish.) A woman who had been on my flight from Phoenix wound up on the same plane with us, and she’ll be working retail there for the summer. She told us that the town gets 900,000 cruise visitors a year and that 900 people permanently live there. What I briefly saw of Skagway gels pretty well with what I’ve heard about it (“It’s quirky,” the boat engineer told us), and I look forward to seeing it.

Haines from the air

A nice view of Haines from the plane. See the cruise ship dock?

I should also add that I originally wrote this post 4:30 AM because I woke up with the sun at about 3:45 AM. When I fell asleep around 9:45, the sun had disappeared, but the sky was still pretty light. I looked it up, and apparently Barrow, AK, gets all sunlight all summer and no sunlight all winter, so I count myself lucky to be on the southern end of the state. The winters here are also tempered by the presence of the ocean, so it’s rare in Juneau for the temperature to dip below 0 (at least according to what I’ve read).

I’ve got more to write about, but I’ll save it for later!  We start work tomorrow (with training and a board meeting), and the museum is set to open on Wednesday, when the first cruise ship docks.

Pollen toes

That’s pollen surrounding my toes.

First non-bird wildlife seen so far.

First non-bird wildlife seen so far.

Possibly taken from Kelgaya Point? Along the Battery Point Trail.

Possibly taken from Kelgaya Point? Along the Battery Point Trail.

Hundreds of barnacles fairly high up on the rocks--I think the tides are crazy here.

Hundreds of barnacles fairly high up on the rocks–I think the tides are crazy here.

Battery Point Trail

Looking out on the Chilkoot Inlet from Battery Point Trail

Trees from the ground

Some trees. Some sunlight. A beautiful day in the woods.

Raven squawk

Thar be ravens here (and they are LOUD.)

For Canada, go that way.

For Canada, go that way.

Layovers

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Hammer treats, anyone?

Right now, I’m at my parents’ house in Phoenix. By this time tomorrow, I’ll be in Haines. That’s something to look forward to, because the last few weeks in DC seemed to drag on endlessly with schoolwork, planning, and finishing up my other internship.  My supervisor at my part-time job (which was surprisingly graceful about letting me go for the summer) did go to the effort of making me a Rice Krispie Treat shaped like a hammer (pictured).

It did seem like the East Coast didn’t want to let me escape, because my initial 4 PM flight from BWI to Dallas was cancelled due to weather. Fortunately, I got lucky and got out on a flight to Charlotte that was due to leave at 8:30 PM, but that one was delayed because we were waiting on the crew. Naturally, I had showed up at BWI ridiculously early that afternoon because I was getting tired of sitting home being anxious, so all told, on Monday I spent 15 hours in airports and on airplanes, and I finally arrived in Phoenix at 12:15 AM (3:15 AM by my body’s clock).

I am hoping, for obvious reasons, that the flight to Seattle and then to Juneau goes smoothly tomorrow. I’m due out at 8:30 AM, and I’m flying Alaska Airlines, which is a dream come true compared to the odd amalgamation/disaster of an airline that is United/American.

The reactions that I get from people when I mention that I’m going to the Hammer Museum are, by and large, amusing. The best one came from a bike mechanic at my former workplace who said, “WOAH. That’s AWESOME,” pulled up the website, got really excited about a miniature ball-peen hammer he saw in a photograph, and said, “I have one of those!” It just goes to show that there’s a museum out there for everyone, so while it may not be the largest, sexiest museum on the planet, the Hammer Museum exists for a reason. On Mysteries at the Museum on the Travel Channel today, there was a segment about the possessed doll at Warren’s Museum of the Occult in New England. So, you know, if you think a museum about hammers is quirky, you ain’t seen nothin’.

Phoenix has been lovely, aside from the occasional worried comment from my family about me being eaten by a bear. There have been two rounds of delicious Mexican food, a pool, an insistent terrier named Molly, a 60 inch television, a piano, and lots of time with my grandparents and parents.

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Shrimp and mango quesadillas, anyone?

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Molly’s just sad she can’t come with.

So no matter what happens, I’ll be departing for Haines a full and happy woman (though with a slight cold as a small souvenir of the East).  Jokes about hammers aside, I’m really, really excited about the opportunity to co-run the operations of a small museum for an entire summer and, I can’t wait to see what’s in store.

By the way, for those of you who asked–no, I still don’t know my mailing address, but I will be  happy to receive letters once I do! I will also be sending postcards to anyone who feels like giving me their address.